M60 105mm GUN COMBAT TANK

Backdate/Conversion of ESCI/ERTL/AMT M60A1 Model Kit
combined with Chesapeake Model Designs M60 Turret

Thanks to Joe Daneri and Gary Kato
for permission to use photos, references and assistance with the details put into this miniature

Copyright © 2006, 2010 & 2011, Jim Lewis/GunTruck Studios
All Rights Reserved Worldwide

Page One

Gallery

Awards & Honors

The ultimate development of the Patton family of main battle tanks, the M60 series is often dubbed "Patton" too - though they were not officially named after General Patton. The M60A1, A2 and A3 variants are well known, but the original M60 MBT sits in relative obscurity. The M60 might be best described as an interim tank - a standard M48 Patton (III) modified to carry the British L7 105mm Gun - to field until something better came along...

The M60 design resulted as answer to the Soviet T-54/55 tanks then fielding a 100mm Gun. At this time, the US fielded the M48 Patton (III) MBT armed with a 90mm Gun. Entering service in 1953, the M48 Patton (III) suffered many developmental problems, most of which were corrected by 1955 in fielding the M48A2. It was quickly decided to upgrade the M48A2's firepower with the British L7 105mm Gun to counter the Soviet tanks - the gun designated M68 in US service.

The US Army redesign of the existing M48A2 Patton (III) encompassed both Hull and Turret modifications - creating a design that carried more fuel, improved suspension features and a Hull with better ballistic properties. The Turret was armed with the M68 105mm Gun and differed from the M48A2 Turret by fitting a redesigned Commander's Cupola and a slightly enlarged, flatter, right rear corner. Lastly, a mount for a .50cal Machine Gun was welded to the Turret rear. The three XM60's didn't have external shock Absorbers, but the production models would. The M60 entered into production in 1960, 180 ordered initially and followed up by and order for 720 more.

The family branched off from this point, with the M60A1 (entering production in 1962) and subsequent versions sporting a larger turret for the M68 105mm Gun, and the remaining M48 variants being retrofitted with the improvements included on the M60. There were several design concepts between - like an M60A1 armed with the Shillelegh/152mm combination Gun/Missile Launcher to name one. This tank's gestation is a little complicated due to the desires to improve the firepower of US tanks fielded, coupled with ballistic protection, performance and cost at that time. The M60's service time is relatively short and perhaps unremarkable if compared to a variant that saw combat - arguably making it less desirable for mass production by major model kit manufacturers. To the contrary, I think this adds to the appeal of modeling this Cold Warrior and it should have been kitted a long time ago.

Though no all-in-one M60 model kit exists today in 1:35th scale - a modeler armed with enough information can pull one together by combining parts from other model kits. ESCI/ERTL/AMT, Tamiya M48A3, M60A1, A2 and A3, Academy/Minicraft M48A3, M48A5K, M60A1 and the AFV Club M48H (CM-11) all provide the modeler with a variety of parts that you can use to build many of the M60 series tanks. I wanted to share my approach to the conversion here.

The hardest part of the conversion is obtaining quality information. Here, I hope to provide enough good data to aid you in your future efforts. I chose to base my miniature modeling effort around the excellent ESCI/ERTL/AMT M60 series of tank model kits. These are simple, but finely detailed model kits - the best available in 1:35th scale. Italeri has recently reissued examples of these kits, if you have difficulty finding the original ESCI/ERTL/AMT releases. Though the turrets on the M60 and the M48A5 are quite similar visually, there are contour differences between the two that makes swapping them inaccurate. You're going to make some strides to model a "Slick 60" - so why skimp on the Turret? Chesapeake Model Designs (CMD) produces an outstanding (and inexpensive) resin Turret that won an AMPS Award in 1994. The quality, detail and casting of this aftermarket is first-rate, and obviously a great deal of care and attention to detail went into its production. It mates wonderfully with the detail and casting of the ECSI/ERTL/AMT model kit - I can't recommend it highly enough.

The remaining major aftermarket set I recommend for a project like this is the use of AFV Club's semi-workable individual track links (#AF35005). Though a fair amount of cleanup is called for on the six sprues of links given (186 links with two ejector pin marks to cleanup in total), once you're done and fitted them to your miniature tank - you'll appreciate the effort. These track sets can be difficult to find however. For this project, I turned to Academy's M48A5K model kit's poly-vinyl tracks because I couldn't find the AFV Club set.


In an attempt to help illustrate my recommended modifications and additions to the basic ESCI/ERTL/AMT model kit Hull, I annotated my notes on scans of the Assembly Sheet.

The ESCI/ERTL/AMT Hull is the best 1:35th scale rendition presently available - and what I personallt feel is the best foundation for the M60 MBT conversion. The modifications and corrections needed to make it more faithful to the actual M60 MBT are few and easy to accomplish. The most visible of the modifications called for come in eliminating the second Shock Absorber on each side, replacing the molded-in Suspension Stops and relocation of the forward Return Roller - moved back towards the rear - as all three are evenly spaced apart. Less visible is trimming away the hull mount for the Idler Adjustment Arm and creating a simple bracket to attach it to the #1 Suspension Arm.

The AFV Club/Academy Commander's Cupola is one of two 1:35th scale subassemblies that I know of presently available. The other is an item produced by Tank Workshop - but I haven't seen it. The above injection-molded plastic item has a very nice, subtle, texture and casting numbers present on the Cupola roof. The white piece of styrene sheet represents the Mount Plate for a pedestal mounted .50cal MG seen on the M60 MBT during the period when there were probems with the M85 .50cal MG in the Commander's Cupola. I modeled this feature along with the rear turret mount provided by CMD and a barrel clamp liberated from a Italeri M47 Patton that was positioned on the turret roof.


Chesapeake Model Designs' (Early) M60 Turret and AFV Club Commander's Cupola & Xenon Searchlight

First off, there is no such thing as an "early" and "late" M60 Turret. CMD points out in their instruction sheet that they used the term to make it clearer to the modeler that this turret is only appropriate for the M60 MBT - and not the later M60A1, A2 or A3 variants - in case you're unaware of the difference.

Designed for the ESCI/ERTL/AMT model kits, the CMD M60 Turret is pretty complete as it comes in the box. I used Gunze Sangyo Mr. Surfacer 500 to patch and texture the joint between the upper and lower halves of the Turret. The real M60 Turrets are not rough in this area, and the Mr. Surfacer fills but does not obscure the fine CMD cast detail.

The resin parts are thin and cleanly cast, with little to no cleanup issues to mention in my example. CMD's instructions are simple, with an exploded drawing diagram. I recommend reading them several times until you understand how to proceed in completing the subassembly though.

A fine turned aluminum barrel is included to represent the M68 105mm Gun. I admit I didn't quite understand how to attach the accordion-like Dust Cover to the Mantlet Cover and had to resort to in-service photos. I sanded and set an angle for the part that I liked in the end. CMD instructions call for you to locate the Gun Barrel end a scale 13 feet from the Mantlet Cover. My 1:35th scale rulers are as welcome as my X-Acto Knife - proving quite handy for this purpose.

I snipped off the cast-in handle for the Loader's Hatch and added one made from a length of .022" solder. You could also go as far as replacing the Hatch Springs too - but I opted not to. I liked the detail already present. The CMD Turret had preset holes for the Stowage Handles on either side, but I found that none of the plastic parts I had fit these locations. No problem, I fashioned my own Stowage Handles using .022" soldier.

This sounds like a difficult medium to work with, but really isn't. When finished, the solder parts are strong - you just have to be careful in handling so as not to bend them out of shape. You shouldn't paw your precious miniatures anyway! I first inserted lengths of solder into the holes, and set them in place with super glue and accelerator. I trimmed them all to the same length. Then, I cut a length of solder and attached it to each leg with a drop of super glue and accelerator to hold it in position. It took only a few minutes and looks nice in place.

The Turret Bustle is also done with .022" solder - as is the rod welded along the rear bottom edge seen at left and below. CMD provides you with a neat jig to set the Bustle Rack braces in place properly - assuring you that they were not always symmetrical on the real M60. Once the braces were glued into place with super glue and accelerator, I went back and added the lengths of solder. Working slowly, the Bustle Rack came together without a problem. I made the bracing strips out of lengths of .010" foil - again using patience, superglue and accelerator.

Both Antennas are made from lengths of .015" brass wire. I originally attempted to model the antennae with .022" solder, but this proved too flimsy for application. It was just too nerve-wracking to have to watch out for the solder everytime I handled the model.

The Power Cable for the Xenon Searchlight is a length of .050" rosin core solder. The Xenon Searchlight Unit I used comes from the AFV Club M48H model kit - as I liked the detail better. The "face" of the searchlight was detailed with Grandt Line bolts (Note that the photos show screws on the face), and the inside of the unit was done with aluminum foil super glued to .020" lead foil.

The lead foil is easy to cut into shape and bend into an insertable reflector housing in which you can insert the "bulb". I had to trim out my own "glass" face for the Searchlight, and a mask to protect the finished interior during painting and finishing the exterior. The small thumbnails below are links to additional photos of the mount itself - rather confusing in the model kit(s). Clicking on the thumbnail provides a larger photo.

I also liberated the Commander's Cupola from the AFV Club (Academy) model kit because I liked the detail better. To this, I added the Hatch from an ESCI/ERTL/AMT M60A3 and the Sight Housing from the M60A1 base kit I was using. To this subassembly, I added the mounting plate for the Pintle that mounted on the early M60 tanks, and drilled out the four bolt locations on the corners. This subassembly does not fit tightly in the CMD Turret as it was not intended to mount on this aftermarket item, so I had to add little locator stubs underneath to keep it seated and aligned properly on the Turret roof. The right edge of the Cupola locates 49 inches off the tank's centerline.

I provided a couple of photos of the area underneath the .50cal Mantlet for you next. It is open on the kit parts. I hope my accompanying photos help you if you wish to add detail in this area.

 

AFV Club model kit Rangefinder blisters and Lift Rings were added to the Turret - as CMD does not provide these in their kit. I added an Italeri .50cal MG Stowage Clip, and two Guards from other ESCI/ERTL/AMT M60 kits that were mounted to protect the Xenon Searchlight when mounted for operation and when stowed on the side of the Turret. Not all M60 tanks show these fitted, as they were removed by the crews. Another length of embroidery thread mimics the chain/pin detail on the Guard in front of the Commander's Cupola, and for the Cap on the .50cal MG Mount on the Turret Rear.

An Accurate Armour Jerry Can Holder and Aber tie-downs were added to their appropriate locations on the Turret - one behind the Jerry Can and nine on the rear right upper area at the Bustle Rack. I used a set of Formations Models Tow Cables to round out the Turret details.

I added more details to the Turret Roof of my miniature appropriate to the early M60 MBT's in accordance with the photos here. These were provided through the kind assistance of Joe Daneri. This photo shows good detail of the mounting plate for the .50cal MG on the side of the Commander's Cupola, the Stowage Clip for the .50cal MG Barrel on the Turret Roof (next to the Guard to prevent the Cupola MG from firing into the Xenon Searchlight when stowed) and the Mount for the .50cal MG on the rear wall of the Turret. The Mount for the rear Turret wall is provided in the CMD Conversion - but I capped it off. The Cupola Mount Plate, Spring Clip and Guard are details you'll have to add yourself. I described my sources in the rest of the text on these pages.

Lastly, in measuring the real vehicle, I noted that there is a half-inch gap between the Turret and the Race that is visible from casual viewing distances - and would be noticable in 1:35th scale. The gap was wide enough to be able to see the turret seals for fording streams. I added small lengths of .015" styrene strip to unseen areas beneath the CMD Turret to elevate it. This is a very small improvment, but one that I liked and was easy to do.

Backdating and Improving the ESCI/ERTL/AMT Model Kit Hull

Consulting photos of restored M60 main battle tanks, coupled with the Technical Manuals on the M60 Series, I set out to make the necessary modifications to the base ESCI/ERTL/AMT M60A1 kit parts to model a M60 Hull.

I followed the suggested assembly sequence and made my modifications along the way. The ESCI/ERTL/AMT model kits are the best renditions of the M60 series tanks in 1:35th scale currently available - and this made working on my conversion that much more enjoyable. I experienced no serious problem during assembly to warn you about - encouraging further exploration of the particulars of the conversion. There were ejector pin marks, sinkholes and some minor flash to remove from the parts in my model kit - none too difficult to deal with. On the positive side, the parts sport nice texture for the cast areas of the Hull and Turret, including casting/foundry markings and numbers. These being noteworthy detail additions for their time. I annotated the Instruction Sheet at left for modifications and changes I made to my model kit - all but one hidden by the angle of the drawing. All the modifications are mentioned in the text and photos to follow however.

My kit's Upper Hull was cleanly cast, with some minor filling called for on the sides of the Storage Bins. I filled them with super glue and accelerator. There were no annoying morotization holes to fill in the lower hull pan. The three major pieces that make up the Hull went together without a problem. I filled the joints and minor gaps with Gunze Sangyo Mr. Hobby brand Mr. White Putty. Wanting to keep my final finish and weathering light, I applied Liquitex Acrylic Light Modeling Paste to the undersides of the sponsons and Hull sides. I applied the Paste with a scrap paint brush and let it setup for a few minutes. Then, I went back over and textured the areas with a portion of a Sea Sponge. This works great for subtely simulating accumulation of dirt and mud without going overboard.

Though very similiar to the M60A1, the Hull of the M60 differs in numbers and locations of certain fittings. The ESCI/ERTL/AMT model kit's bulges running along the side of the lower Hull have notches cast into them that I could not find on the actual M60 tank. I filled these gaps with super glue and accelerator.

The M60's #2 Road Wheel does not have Shock Absorbers - so I removed the mounting points and restored the cast texture in this area. I also deleted the Lift Rings (not shown here in the above Technical Manual drawing) from the M60A1 model kit, and filled the locating depressions. The area underneath the sponsons of the M60 are relatively clean and neat and these two large lift rings are not present on the M60 Hull.

I fashioned replacement Suspension Arm Stops (for lack of the proper term) and cut away the simple castings on the ESCI/ERTL/AMT Hull bottom - which bore little resemblance to the items on the real M60. The backsides of all the Suspension Arms need to be filled as well.

Contrary to the TM drawing above, the M60's Return Rollers were evenly spaced apart - with the front Return Roller only moved forward to the position shown above in the M60A1 and later vehicles when the second Shock Absorber was added. I cut the mounts away and replaced them with scrap styrene tubing - relocating the mounts 14 scale inches to the rear.

Left Above and Below, I made the replacement Stops using .030" styrene strip, cut to shape. Using the Road Wheels temporarily tacked into position, I glued the stops into place and simulated the weld beads with acrylic gel medium.

Another view of the actual Stops on the M60 Hull, along with Return Roller and Road Wheel detail.

The M60 was fitted initially with side-loading air cleaners. At left, the early and late model side-loading air cleaner styles are shown. I went with the early side-loader as provided in the ESCI/ERTL/AMT model kit.

The attachments for the Shock Absorbers to the Suspension Arms are a bit simplified and not 100% accurate in the ESCI/ERTL/AMT model kit - but at least they're present.Other M60 series kits lack this feature. The backs of the Suspension Arms could use additional detail in the form of caps to close off the open ends behind the Road Wheel axles at the least. Part #B37 (Idler Wheel Damper) does not locate into the Hull, as molded in the ESCI/ERTL/AMT model kit.. Trim and fill this locator away - and attach the Damper to the Suspension Arm. While you're at it, filling the backs of the Drive Housings is called for in building the ECSI/ERTL/AMT model kit Hull. Simple pieces of styrene sheet comes in handy for this seemingly small detail - that's easy to miss if you get ahead of yourself - like I do sometimes! Instead of freehanding it, make it easy on yourself and cut a scrap piece of paper out and make a pencil tracing of the opening. Trim your new template out and use it to cut out the shape on the sheet styrene. Test fit and trim as necessary. Circled in the photo here are Drain Covers for the Transmission and Engine - missing from all the M60 series model kit Lower Hull pans. The detail is easy to miss, unless you're familar with the M60 series, like Tankers are. Adding it isn't difficult using styrene sheet and your favorite scale Bolt Heads.

Another modification to my miniature is a revised Driver's Hatch. Again, thanks to Joe Daneri, I could improve my miniature's fidelity to the actual M60 MBT by modeling the correct Hatch. M60 MBT Driver's Hatches were equipped with an IR Night Periscope. The M60A1, A2 and A3 used a newer night vision sight - appropriately molded in the ESCI/ERTL/AMT M60A1 model kit as I used here for this project. In the photo below, the M60 MBT Hatch is called out by caption #2. Caption #1 shows the M60A1 passive sight equipped Driver's Hatch. Caption #3 shows Driver's Hatches that were modified from IR Night Vision Periscopes to Passive Sights, with Caption #3 from a late model CEV made from an M60A1 Hull and Caption #4 on an M60A3 TTS rebuilt from an M60A1.The AFV Club/Academy Hatch can be improved further by adding a little more contour around the Periscope blister with some putty to better represent the actual. I used a small bit of Apoxie Sculpt for this detail. I tried to present a photo with enough contrast here to see the Apoxie Sculpt worked around the IR Periscope blister. The tan color of the bare plastic plays havoc with the meter on my camera. Anyway, the Apoxie Sculpt has a working time from 1 to 3 hours - plenty of time for this process. I worked a little string rolled between my fingers into position using a wet (water) paintbrush, and then smoothed it out. If you'll notice, I did not drill out the Driver's Hatch cast into the ESCI/ERTL/AMT upper Hull. I used my modified Hatch as a master to cast in Alumilite instead. I holled out the underside with my battery-powered Dremel tool and slipped the new Hatch as a cap over the original kit part. Why? No answer other than I wanted to see if I could pull the idea off. Never be afraid to try unconventional approaches in modeling - you'll always learn something new if you do...

At left, the TM illustrates the aluminum and the armored versions of the later top-loading air cleaners. Depending on the time period and the unit your choose to model your M60 tank - either style of side or top-loading air cleaners would be appropriate.

Modifying the Infantry Phone Box to the style fitted to the M60 is easy, the drawing at the left shows the Handset Box Assembly as fitted to the M60, and the difference between it and the later style fitted to the M48A3, early M60A1 and early M728 tanks. I sanded away the offending detail and added my own Grandt Line #153 boltheads and a clasp from scrap solder and foil. The Infantry Phone Box was bolted directly to the Fender in the early M60. Naturally, this was modified in the field like the retrofitting of later style Air Cleaners, and some photos of restored vehicles show the Phone Box mounted on a shelf. A short length of solder imitates the cable running behind the Phone Box.

I drilled out the mud holes in the Drive Sprockets missing from the model kit parts. Simple task to accomplish, I just drilled two adjacent holes, and reamed out the shape with a mini-file. There are three holes each, spaced equidistant apart. I read elsewhere on the Internet that a modeler performing the same conversion recommended that the Guide Rings be eliminated on the M60 Drive Sprockets, but I could not confirm this. The Technical Manuals on the M60 Series of MBT's present contradictory information and all the photos I've seen of M60 tanks in the fied show the Guide Rings in place.

In my version of the ESCI/ERTL/AMT model kit, I was missing a couple of parts for the Drive Sprocket subassembly. I fitted examples from AFV Club's (Academy) M48H model kit. These fit without problem to the ESCI/ERTL/AMT model kit.

Minor detail additions to the Hull come in blanking off the interior of the external Fire Extinguisher Box mounted on the Glacis with scrap styrene strip and very short lengths of .022" solder to mimic the activators. .015" solder lengths were added as pins for the Armored Fuel Caps - which go just about hidden in the end result behind the Air Cleaners and underneath the Turret rear overhang.

The Outriggers (braces that support the Fenders) are acceptable as presented in the ESCI/ERTL/AMT model kit, but do benefit from minor thinning of the tops with a sanding stick to reduce the thickness. Photoetch replacement parts are too thin for replicating these parts. I added Grandt Line #135 Bolts to the brackets that secure the Outriggers to the Hull to replicate missing detail in the model kit. You'll need eight bolts per Outrigger - 64 bolts in total. Outrigger #1 (Front Fender) calls for two bolts to be added on each side. I used Verlinden resin bolts for this detail.

I replaced the kit Headlight Units with excellent resin examples from Grief Accessories (#GF 025). Grief's set includes the clear and blackout lights are separate lenses, providing a superior result when finished. The model kit's Headlight Guards are also missing the mounting brackets that are welded to the Glacis. You can easily add this little detail to enhance the area without a great deal of extra effort.

The model kit's Personnel Heater Exhaust was improved by drilling out the end and adding two Clamps made from lengths of Foil and secured with Verlinden resin bolts. The M60 has a capped port for the xxxxx - which I made with scrap styrene strip sanded to shape and two Verlinden resin bolts glued to either end.

Moving to the rear, a small length of embroidery thread was added to the Tow Hitch pin, I added Verlinden bolts yet again to the Travel Lock and incorporated Grandt Line bolts to add missing detail on the Engine Access Doors and Hinges too. All the Engine Grill Hinges call for added bolt detail. You can easily add over one hundred bolts to the ESCI/ERTL/AMT model kit before you realize it.

Using Academy's Poly-Vinyl Track Runs

Academy's M48A5K model kit provides a suitable set of poly-vinyl tracks that I chose to fit to my miniature. I couldn't obtain a set of AFV Club track links in time for my project. The Academy track runs are quite stiff though, reminiscent of the track runs provided in Italeri's M4 Sherman and newer LVT series Amtrack model kits.

First off, I joined the ends of the track runs with the traditional heated tool to mushroom the connecting pins. This provided a pretty strong bond. Next, I cleaned up the seams on the end connectors with a steel wire brush inserted into my battery-powered Dremel tool. Next, I setup a pot of water on the stove, heating it to approximately 107 degrees. Using a pair of tongs, I dipped a track run into the hot water for a few seconds (between five and ten). Then, I took it out of the water, stretched and pinched the ends until it held the shape I wanted it to be. This method takes out warps and radical bends old poly-vinyl tracks set into when in a box for a long period of time. I only had to dip the track runs a couple of times to straighten them out and set them into a much better shape to fit around the ESCI/ERTL/AMT Suspension.

Very quickly, I attached the track runs to my model miniature, for them to cool and setup in "shape". The fit of my Road Wheels, Idlers and Drive Sprockets were loose, so I wrapped short lengths of Tamiya Masking Tape around the locator stubs on every suspension arm. This kept the wheels tightly attached to the model tank's Hull. As I used Academy's Drive Sprockets there were no problems with the track runs fitting tightly around the Sprocket Teeth. In the end, I saved two hours (lt least) over what I would have by fitting my first choice AFV Club individual track links. The Academy poly-vinyl track runs became quite rigid and setup tighty as they cooled on the model tank Hull, and would eventually only need a tiny drop of 5-minute epoxy to coak them down to contact the Return Rollers. They look good in place and you can even see a little daylight between the links - like you would with the individual sets.

With the tracks in place and everything else press-fit for photography, the M60 miniature took on an agressive stance - this was a pretty good looking tank - just big!


How Close Does the Miniature Measure Up to the Real M60 MBT?

Technical Manual 55-2350-215-10-15 provides transportability drawings that I used to check the overall dimensions of the assembled model miniature - more for fun than anything else. I had already gleefully charged into building it and wasn't about to go back and take it apart again. The Technical Manual information is useful for future projects though - who can build just one M60 series model tank?

The assembled model M60 tank looks pretty nice from all angles and that got me curious to investigate how close it matched the real vehicle in overall scale.

Measured from Fender to Fender (minus the Mud Flap) the model falls some four scale inches short (3mm) of the posted 273.5 inch length. In comparing the rest of the model Hull dimensions, the measurement from the centerline of the Drive Sprocket to the centerline of Road Wheel #6 falls some 3.5 inches short in scale as well. The Angle of Departure and Angle of Approach do come very close to the TM drawings and the distance between the Idler Wheel and Road Wheel #1 matches.

The TM drawings suggest that the Hull length is 257 inches - which the ESCI/ERTL/AMT Hull matches in scale. To correct the distance between the Drive Sprocket and Road Wheel #6, and maintain the proper spacing between the rest of the Road Wheels and Idler and Return Rollers, would call for more work than most would consider warranted to gain a couple of millimeters. The model kit's basic assembly looks very nice and the shortage is not very noticable in the final product.

Vertically, the ESCI/ERTL/AMT model comes out better. The Hull sits above the posted Ground Clearance of 14 inches - by a couple of scale inches. The overall height, measured from ground to the top of the Sight Housing on the Commander's Cupola is 126.3 inches - which my finished miniature matched despite using an aftermarket Turret and Cupola from another model kit.

Ground to top of Bustle Stowage Rack at 98.6 inches matched, Ground to top of Return Roller/Bottom of upper track run at 54.2 inches matched, Ground to top of Fender Stowage Bins at 69.1 inches and Ground to top of Air Cleaner (side-loading) at 72.2 inches matched as well in miniature.

The model miniature's width matches up with the TM drawings, with a scale overall width of 143 inches, Road Wheel track (outer wheel edge to outer wheel edge) of 130 inches and Track center to Track center of 115 inches. The Academy poly-vinyl track runs I fitted to my miniature are narrower than the 28 inch track span posted in the drawing by 2 scale inches, but still slightly extend beyond the Fenders when attached to the model. Though they look fine once in place, this isn't in strict fidelity to the real tank. All in all, the measurement exercise was fun and I didn't feel compelled to mess around with the Road Wheels, Drivers and Track width this time around. The model kit captures the look and feel of the M60 MBT quite nicely for what I was seeking in modeling the subject.


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